Hey All,
Well the wind gods finally got us to Rum Cay! After 3 attempts last year we made it on the first try this year. Arrived on Jan. 19th. Caught two small tuna on the way from Calabash Bay, Long Island.
What a place! The island is about 9mi long and 5mi wide. It has about 80 inhabitants! Over 100 yrs ago there were 3-4000!! At the time it had a big-time commercial salt pond. Fishing is big time here having deep water “drop offs” and a strong current off the eastern side. Record big game fish such as Blue/White Marlin, Mahi-Mahi, Tuna, and some giant Wahoo are never more than a couple miles offshore. On the reefs there are Grouper, Snapper, and some pretty large Spiny Lobster(no claws). In some areas the water depths go from exposed coral heads to 6000+ft in less than a ¼ mile!! This type of underwater set-up is also ideal for surfing. With the island being oblong shaped, in an east -west orientation, this allows waves from North Atlantic storms to literally jump up as they get into the shallower water and wrap around the Cay. The wind will always be off-shore somewhere. There are numerous reef breaks and a sandy bottom point on the SW corner.
The first two days here we anchored in the bay just west of Sumner Point Marina. There was a bit of a “roll”, which means there was a small swell/surge coming from an angle different from the way the boat was facing. This tends to get a bit uncomfortable after a night or two. So with an approaching cold front, and not much protection, we decided to head into the only marina on the island. This place is in a “time warp” as most marinas go. Laid back is way to stressful sounding for this place!! We expected John Wayne in “Donavans Reef” to show up at anytime. Bobby, the owner, comes out to escort you to your slip and grab your dock lines on a standup surfboard. He has been coming to the island since the 60’s first vacationing from Florida and eventually living here full-time. Needless to say he is the go-to guy for any activity, especially surfing. We proceed to find out that there was a small swell hitting the eastern side and a couple guys were surfing it. The next day Bobby says he is loading up his boat and we are all welcome to surf/dive around the SE side. Two kite surfers are going to follow us there. During the 20 minute ride these guys were zipping all around the boat making for some interesting background. We anchor and 4 of us paddle out to a 3-4ft reef break. A good day to get the arms back in shape.
The next day, Sunday, Kathy, a local, picks up Robin along with Bob&Diane, From Two of a Kind” and drives them to church and then a tour of the island. I stay on the boat doing some systems checks and cleaning filters, etc. As they get back from touring Bobby is again ready to go. Same drill only we are headed to Sandy Point.
There is a NW swell and it is about 4-5ft, w/offshore winds and some very long rides. This time there are 6 of us. After anchoring getting out involves paddling/dinghy to the lee shore, maybe 75yds, walking across a hundred yard wide sand spit, then proceeding 300yds along the sand/rock shore to the “jump off” spot. This is a flat rock ledge that comes straight up from 15-20ft of water. You time the waves hitting it and jump in. Much easier than it sounds and then paddle to the take off spot. After each wave it is an easy paddle back out. Find out that the arms are not in shape yet!
Monday the surf does not cooperate and Robin goes to the school to help out. There are 15 children up to 9th grade and one teacher!! Of course she ends up helping for another two days. Mon. night we attend the 79th birthday party of the island “Matriarh”, Delores Wilson. She is the owner of Kaye’s Bar and has lived on the island her entire life! A energetic, warm-hearted, fascinating woman and a host to numerous celebrities, dignitaries and thousands of cruisers from around the world. The bar walls are “papered” with autographed pictures of Jackie Onassis, Mohammed Ali, Sydney Poitier, heads of state and regular crusing folk. The entire island was invited, cruisers included, to a dinner at the bar. Everyone brought a dish as well as the bar preparing trays of local favorites. Rum drinks flowed and the dancing ensued. What a time to visit Rum Cay!!
Tuesday finds the surf is up again and it should be good on the north shore. The first break is 2-4ft and not very consistent. We stay for about an hour. There are 4 people already out who flew in from the central Exumas. Decided to move east and find a beautiful right break about 4-5ft and very clean. The three of us stayed there for about 4hrs.
Wed. we went back to the same place and it was 5-6ft and really long rides, 250 yd, glassy waves. Again only 3 of us out.
Thurs. again back to the same spot but the wind shifted more and we surfed yet another break on the NE side. By now my arms were shot and we called it a day by 11am. At 12:30 I went out fishing with Bryan on his boat. He has been here for 10yrs. We only caught one small tuna and a barracuda. It was really amazing to watch his depth sounder as it would go from 80ft to 600ft+ in only a couple of boat lengths!
The whole time here we had a number of "potluck" dinners which mostly consisted of fresh fish/lobster and some really great company. A special thanks to Bobby, Chris, Rasta, Hartley and the rest of the Sumner Point Marina crew and cruisers.
We will be back here again very soon. Monday we are heading for Conception Island, about 20mi, for a couple days then on to Long Island (no, not that Long Island!) to re-supply and do some more exploring.
All for now,
